Sunday 28 July 2013

The joys of camping

I was reminded by a far away friend recently that I hadn't published a post for a while. Firstly I felt rather flattered that anyone had noticed that I hadn't posted! I also realised that the comment was absolutely true and I had actually a fair bit that I could talk about. So much to talk about in fact that I decided my Sunday evening would be best spent practicing my newly honed touch typing skills in writing about the goings on of the last 6 weeks or so.

As I have mentioned previously, Canadians are very good at taking advantage of scarce  good weather and having fun outdoors. One of the most effective ways of doing this whilst also taking advantage of the beautiful scenery of this fabulous country, is to go camping. The joy of being able to drive somewhere new, pitch up a tent and enjoy campfire banter with good friends is something I never really embraced back home for reasons unbeknownst to me. Thus, I have made the conscious decision to atone for this mistake, especially as I live in the gorgeous province of Newfoundland.

In a bid to make sure this new concept really took hold, I decided to make an investment. Not much of an expensive investment, nor a volumetrically large investment, but an emotional investment in that I would feel guilty in buying gear and then not using it. And so with a determined mind I set off for Canadian Tire (the Canadian B&Q if you will) and bought the $30 tent that had been winning rave reviews on their website. Now I should point out that I was under no illusions as to what to expect from a $30 tent. It is not the type of tent you would aim to hike long distances with, although it packs down surprisingly well for a 3 man. It's not the type of tent that you would want to use in particularly inclement weather. But for the purpose of the car camping trips that I will be indulging in for the next year or so I thought/hoped it would be adequate. 
 My humble 3-man abode.
And so I was prepared to go on whatever adventures those with cars were prepared to take me on. My first jaunt was a trip to Northern Bay Sands, a gorgeous sandy beach on the other side of Conception Bay. The weather was set to be beautiful on Discovery Day weekend, which also coincided with the appearance of the Super Moon. With the cars loaded with vast amounts of goodies from Costco we set off on like John Cabot himself to an unexplored (for us at least) portion of the Avalon. On the way the eagle-eyed amongst us spotted some whales out in the bay, leading to a road side stop with the binoculars. The sight of a couple of Minke whales had already made our trip worthwhile. We were not to know of the treats around the corner.

Arriving at the campsite we managed to snag a great pitch and after setting up we quickly headed down the matter of metres to the beach. With St Johns' rocky coastline largely preventing daily frolicking in the sea the lure of the ocean was too much for us to resist.

Embracing the cold water.
Demonstrating our strength in fighting the not-so-mighty waves.
Playing Viking Chess on sand is infinitely more difficult than on grass.
After drying off and eating our Costco marinated pork chops, we then noticed something out to sea. There was an abundance of whale spouts popping up further up the bay. Quickly we bundled into the car and drove down there, for what turned out to be a whale bonanza. A group of approximately 30 humpback whales just having a time. We couldn't believe what we were seeing. They were the first whales I had ever seen, and their abundance and proximity has forever spoilt my expectations. I had to stop excitedly clicking away on my camera and just take it all in.

They did not try and hide their location at all, with spouts continuously erupting from the sea.
Showing some tail.
They got pretty close to the shore too.
The excited crew with a spectacular view.
We returned to camp on a high where we then proceeded to eat our body weight in smores and campfire popcorn under the glow of the Super Moon. The following day we planned to tour around the peninsula and take in the spectacular scenery that the Avalon affords. So after eating our body weight in bacon/things fried in bacon fat we leisurely travelled north, stopping at various picturesque bays hoping to once again find some whales.

One of the particular charms of this particular parts of the world is the unusual place names. As mentioned we were on the other side of Conception Bay. Driving south down Trinity Bay you come across the consecutive villages of Heart's Content, Heart's Desire, and Heart's Delight. Out to sea is a small rocky island, naturally called Shag Rock. But then there is the crowning glory of weird place names. Dildo. The origins of the name are unclear but Wikipedia postulates that it may be related to the phallus-shaped pin in a row boat used as a pivot for the oar. However it came about, we couldn't not stop for a photo with the town mascot.

Captain Dildo and the happy travellers.
Our enthusiasm for camping after this trip was followed up by a more ambitious plan. A two-night trip further west for Canada Day weekend. And so a happy band of campers (ironically none of us being Canadian) headed off to Central Newfoundland and Dildo Run Provincial Park (surprisingly nowhere near the town of Dildo previously mentioned.) The weather wasn't looking too great on our way up and we arrived 5 hours later under grey skies. We wandered around the beautiful inlet at the campsite and I tried to make the best of the weather by playing with my new fancy camera. After a brief rain shower the sun came out to play and after a feast of everything-smothered-in-garlic-butter we settled down ahead of the big day tomorrow.

Dildo Run. Not the worst view in the world even in the grey,
but infinitely improved with sunlight.
The following day we headed off across the Hamilton Sound to Fogo Island, one of the must-see tourist attractions in Newfoundland. I was naturally very excited as I'd heard wonderful things about the island. Also, I was going to an island, which meant that I was going on a ferry. And it was when we were approached the terminal at Farewell that everyone discovered how much I love ferries. I really love ferries. To me they mean going on an adventure somewhere, evoking memories of trips on the Mersey Ferry as a child, or on geological journeys to Scottish islands like Arran and Mull. And this trip was to be no exception.

Fogo Island is a picturesque step back to another time. There's quaint fishing houses nestled in rocky bays that must be harsher than they appear in the light of summer. The houses are as colourful as they are in the rest of Newfoundland but have a different feel to them (especially when you take photos of them in miniature mode with a new camera). Then there is Brimstone Head, a volcanic promontory that is alleged to be one of the four corners of the world by the Flat Earth Society. And you could see why. Despite not having the time to walk the trail it was easy to imagine why this place felt like the edge of the earth.

FERRY TIME!!!
Miniature matchstick houses.
The artsy monstrosity that is the new Fogo Island Inn, where a room
can set you back $1000 if you are so inclined... 
In the town of Fogo itself we come across some locals playing some jigs and reels.
Brimstone Head at the edge of the earth.
On our final day (Canada Day itself) we headed up to Twillingate, the so-called Iceberg Capital of the world. 2013 has been a somewhat poor year for icebergs in comparison to recent years. I don't think many have made it as far east as St John's at least. Unfortunately we didn't see any while we were in Twillingate, but that doesn't mean it was a wasted excursion. Crow Head afforded majestic views, as well as a coffee shop with excellent flavoured lattes. Fuelled on caffeine we started our journey back to St John's, but not without stopping for lunch at the Chelsea's Fish & Chip van, where their infamous 26 foot lobster provides a unique photo oppotunity

Fabulous colours helped by excellent geology.
The flag at Long Point Lighthouse. 
I don't know what more I can say about this. 
Arriving back in St John's I was definitely hit by the post-holiday lull. The excitement of travelling around the island quickly evaporated with the feeling of exhaustion and annoyance at the amount of dishes my housemates had left in the sink. The joys reappeared as quickly though once I had looked back through and edited my photos. It had been a fabulous adventure and I was not going to let my housemates bring me down. I had spent the weekend falling in love with more of this island. My new tent had now survived two trips and dealt with some moderate rain and wind. And I had plans in place for an another, even bigger adventure in the coming weeks. It is this which forms the basis of my next narrative...

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