Desert Adventures II - The Mojave Desert

This post fills in the gaps in the middle from the previous one, that is what I actually got up to on the field work bit of my trip. Myself, John & Johnnie met up with the 4th member of our intrepid team, Calvin. Calvin was John's Master's advisor back in the day and he has been working on the rocks of the Mojave desert for the last 40 years or so. He was to act as our guide to all things desert related. 

We set off from Vegas on our way towards Needles, California where we were staying. I was in the rugged little 4-wheel-drive Jeep with Calvin. Driving south I got a geological travelogue of every single mountain range and valley we passed. And don't mistake my tone here, it was fabulous to be told the information and stories of the landscape from the  guy with a photographic memory. 

We made good time on the road and we stopped for an early lunch before actually getting our nose to any rocks. We stopped at the Hi Sahara Oasis, a fabulous truck stop along the original Route 66. The first culinary delight of the trip was a falafel pita that, despite not containing any tahini much to Calvin's dismay, was scrumptious.

The Hi Sahara Oasis. A true oasis in the desert this is the only place within 100 miles on the interstate. 

The wind whips up a wee sand storm as a lonely truck stops to refuel.

Next we headed for the rocks. The main focus of my study is to look at the Sweetwater Wash pluton, which is part of the Old Woman-Piute range Mountains. I'll be digging out extremely small minerals of monazite from the granites, shooting some lasers at them and measuring their chemical components. From that I can tell lots about how the formed and when these big lumps of molten rock cooled. 

Anyways we came off the main highways and continued along bumpy desert roads. The roads were actually in pretty good condition despite just being linear trails through the cacti. Doesn't mean my back didn't hurt at the end of it though. We drove for about an hour up Carbonate Gulch, much more preferable a dry stream than Rattlesnake Canyon, despite there not actually being any Carbonate rocks anywhere nearby. Work then consisted of getting out of the cars, having a gander at the rocks and Calvin providing us with wisdom as to where is best to sample. Then John would hit the bejesus out of the granite with his sledgehammer and I would collect. Bag and tag, move onto the next outcrop.

The Old Woman Mountains in the midday sun.

"That is a nice boulder." And actually it is. It's granite with bits of Fenner Gneiss trapped in it.

Part of the Sweetwater Wash Pluton. Johnnie went off for a wander to the
left and found an old mine shaft.

Sunset over the Ship Mountains to the south.
Our wee Jeep in the late afternoon glow.

We made it to Needles and settled into our hotel. Dinner was at Juicy's River Cafe next door, where we would also enjoy our breakfasts the following days. I had a Baja Burger, somehow named so due to the addition of an avocado. Yummy but greasy southern fare. How different my weight would be now had we camped on this trip.

Following day we headed to the beautifully named Painted Rock pluton, a Pride Rock-esque monolith sticking out of the desert. Despite almost getting stuck by persevering down the desert track we made it safely in and we all got a bit snap happy. I especially was enjoying learning about the ecology of the desert from Calvin, and thus documented most of the plants we came across. I did also see some Teddy Bear Cholla and some Joshua Trees but for some reason didn't take any photos...

Cottontop Cactus

Cholla (they hurt)

Why Chollas hurt

(Drunken) Yucca

Ray Flower

Juniper tree that made me crave gin.

There's a stupid amount of cholla photos because they were the most abundant cacti.

Forging on we went to the other side of the Sweetwater Wash pluton and hiked in about an hour to sample on this side. It was pretty cool having Calvin there because he did his Master's mapping these rocks so he knew exactly where everything was and where we were going. We made our way to the "famous" SW-1 site that provided the samples for some of the breakthroughs in accessory mineral geochemistry during the 80's. Having read about it so much in class it was cool to go there. We hiked back to the cars walking down the dry Sweetwater Wash itself and were treated to a lovely sunset that photos don't do justice to. 

Dinner this evening was a "chicken fried steak" at the Wagon Wheel restaurant. I ordered it as I was intrigued as to what it actually was. There was no chicken involved. Just a thin bread crumbed steak with some lovely sauce and some chips. More typical southern fare.

Painted Rock pluton. The massiveness of the desert
was particularly evident from here

Piute mountain sediments, the same ones that are in the Grand Canyon, but here older Cambrian rocks are thrust on top of them.

We kept finding little presents all over the road. We then found the culprit, likely a member of the Lazy Daisy Ranch nearby.

The sunset over the Old Woman Mountains.

Our last day involved one more sample collection, this time from the North Piute pluton. A quick drive towards the Great White contact and a quick whack at the rocks. After that John was keen to drive north into the Mojave National Preserve for some extraordinary scenery and a wide variety of geological features. The Granite Mountains were spectacular in their 100% outcrop. The Kelso Sand dunes formed as the winds blow down from the mountains. And then the Kelso depot, now a ghost town but it used to be an important stop on the railroad and telegraph station.

The Great White contact. North PIute granite below in contact with the
Fenner Gneiss at the roof of the pluton.

Me halfway up the Kelso Dunes, 45 sq. miles of migrating aeolian sand deposits, the highest point being 650 ft. We were aiming for the top but walking it at 12 noon wasn't the best way to achieve this goal.

Kelso Depot. Very different to the Scottish town of Kelso.

Lunch at the Mad Greek Cafe in Baker was a huge yummy lamb souvlaki. I did have my reservations though when I saw a load of birds angrily flapping around outside, reminding me of the Greek legend of Prometheus who got his eyes pecked out by birds...Anyways we continued to drive north and it started to look more like a proper arid desert. Vegetation became sparse and dried up lakes became the norm. Huge alluvial fans coming off the mountains made it look more like the photos of Death Valley that I had studied during my undergrad. We weren't actually that far away from Death Valley.

We arrived at our destination, the China Ranch Date Farm. Located on the Old Spanish Trail it has produced dates since around the 1920's, importing date trees from Iraq and growing them using the sparse water that is found deep beneath the 100's of metres of lake sediments. We had date milkshakes, which to be honest had no taste of dates but lovely nonetheless, and I purchased some Date Bread for the Pot Luck Xmas dinner I was attending 9 hours after I landed back in St John's.

The Kingston Peak formation that we studied for a
mapping project as 4th years in St Andrews.

42 Flag in a proper looking desert.

The China Ranch Date Farm with lots of lovely little bits of memorabilia.

Dates growing on the trees covered in some very colourful cloth.

We saw a coyote atop the sediments. We think he was waiting for the farm to knock off for the night to treat himself to some dates.

One more stop on our whirlwind tour of the Mojave. Just past the wee town of Shoshone John took me to a wonderful road outcrop where the MUN field school goes in the Spring. Reminiscent of the Multicoloured Rock Stop in the Scottish Highlands, it's another beautiful set of rocks to sketch in the notebook.

The sun set and now we had an epic drive back to Needles. Driving through some dense Joshua tree forests we discovered that they look rather alien and creepy at night. We stopped briefly to look up and admire the stars. I've never been anywhere where you appreciate the fact that the stars are arranged in the belt of the Milky Way. Having been listening to talk of the Mayan Apocalypse on the radio, I suddenly felt very very small.

The fabulous desert experience was topped by a trip to Valenzuela's. This tiny Mexican restaurant is a favourite of Calvin and John's and Calvin was very disappointed that he had left before we went there. Set in a residential area this small building still had an external outhouse-style toilet for the customers. The food was incredible and the hospitality fantastic. I was particularly impressed by the home-made taco shells, something I hadn't come across before. I fought to finish my food, as I didn't want to waste such a beautiful meal.

A volcaniclastic wonderland, beautiful in the late afternoon light.

Another gorgeous sunset.

And there I ended my second Californian adventure. Beautiful sights that I may never see again. Lots of photographs that attempted to capture the incredible views although few of them depict what I'll have in my memories. A wonderful week full of scenery, food and geology. What more could you want?

Desert Adventures I - The sights of Las Vegas

Being a geologist is pretty awesome. There are rocks everywhere in the world. You find a reason to study them and you can find yourself off in some rather exotic places. Now I'm a (newly converted) granite person and it just so happens that there's some pretty awesome granites in California. In September I had chance to see some of them in the Sierra Nevada towards the north of the state. My Master's project is looking at some similar ones to the south in the Mojave Desert. So off to I went to the desert in the relatively cool month of December.

My advisor was at a conference in San Francisco the week before I went out so I flew into Las Vegas, we met there and then drove down towards my field site. This allowed for plenty of time for sightseeing and to take in Vegas. And boy is there a lot to take in. The biggest thing that got me was the scale of the place, or rather the lack of a sense of scale.  Vegas is surrounded by mountains on all sides, but you can't really tell how big they are. They could be 200m or 2000m. The only skyscrapers in the city are the casinos. The rest of the city is 1-2 storey buildings. So when you're walking along The Strip and you can see the casino you want to head for, you may think it's only a block away. But 1 block is more like 6 blocks. It takes a long time to walk around. And then the casinos themselves are enormous when you go inside. It's rather easy to get lost, especially if you're just walking aimlessly around like I was.

Excalibur Hotel & Casino. I think Grand Theft Auto did a fab job recreating this.

The Luxor with it's Pyramid, Sphinx and  Obelisk. Naturally I had Dad's flag with me. The irritating thing about getting a photo of this hotel is the ugly monorail that runs right in front of the Sphinx.

Street corner in front of the Excalibur, New York New York to the left MGM Grand off to the right. The scale of these places made getting a decent photo very difficult. This is a stitch of 6 photos.

Taken from Caesar's Palace towards the Eiffel Tower Restaurant and Bally's.

I got to my hotel and dropped my stuff off and then headed straight for The Strip. I had a couple of hours before John flew in so I wanted to keep my sightseeing simple. We were staying at a place 15 minutes walk down Flamingo, which runs perpendicular to The Strip. I rocked up and was greeted by the wonderfully coloured Flamingo casino and the ever so grand Caesar's Palace casino. Walking past all the posh shops I appeared on the street outside the Bellagio, just in time for the famous fountain display. It's the same thing that's in the scene at the end of Ocean's Eleven, and as this is one of my favourite films I was very excited. It didn't matter that I saw it in the middle of the day. It was set to "It's Beginning To Look A Lot Like Xmas" and despite Vegas looking exactly the same as it does the rest of the year, it didn't take anything away from the wonderfulness of the display.

Bellagio fountains. There was a plaque explaining how they use the water sustainably, despite being in a desert where water resources are poor.

I walked from here southwards down The Strip, taking in the weird and wonderful sights of Sin City. There were lots of characters dressed up on the streets inviting you for photos, such as Mario & Luigi, Iron Man, and a Britney Spears impersonator who was a little outdated. I walked around 2 miles through town and made it to Mandalay Bay, the fabulous  golden hotel near the start of The Strip. My plan was then to walk a little further to the Welcome to Las Vegas sign. I knew it was down the road a bit more but as I continued to walk the hotels, casinos and gift shops stopped, and a few particularly creepy motels remained. At that point I chickened out and turned round, citing that I had to get back to the hotel.

Diverted into the MGM Grand due to walkway repairs I naturally got lost in its vastness. The Pacquiao Marquez fight was on that night so the place was buzzing. I came across the MGM lion in a boxing ring wearing a stetson. Of course.

Mandalay Bay in all its glory.

Another natural phenomenon in Vegas, a Harley Davidson restaurant with a bike coming out of it. There was also a Planet Hollywood and TWO Hard Rock Cafes.

I met up with John and his son and we drove round LV during the evening. We headed to Downtown where all the original casinos were. Just missed a photo down Glitter Gulch but this'll do nicely.

Not happy with the disappointment of not finding the sign we drove there for a snap. I would've got one standing in front of it but there were several wedding parties out and I didn't want to interrupt. I'm thinking I should've now...

Now I'm going to skip forward a couple days to describe the return trip to Las Vegas. On the way back we decided to drop in on Lake Mead to see the Hoover Dam. What a disappointment. Driving through the snaky roads to the actual dam road you couldn't see anything of, well very much. The sides of the road were high so you couldn't see any water either side. You could walk around the sight for a small fortune, or get a lift on one of the many helicopters that were doing tours. If you didn't want to get to the dam itself, you had to go through a Homeland Security check. As we had all of our luggage this would've have been a particular hassle. Fed up with the paranoia and stupidity of the situation we found the one car park where you can see anything worthwhile for free. I jumped out with the flag and got some photos in gale force winds and we drove onwards and upwards. At least I briefly popped into Arizona!

Lake Mead on the Colorado River. The white "bath tub line" on the rocks shows how much the water level has dropped some 140ft since it's maximum in 1983.

We headed back to our hotel and then to do some non-casino related LV sightseeing. (The only gambling I did was a wee flutter on some quarter machines where I won some non-redeemable "smile tokens".) We went to the Atomic Testing Museum, where we learnt the history of the Nevada Test Site. It was super interesting and really informative. I would highly recommend for anyone to go. DO NOT bother with the Area 51 exhibition however. What a waste of time that was. Stupid conspiracy theories lit by neon green lights. Urgh.

Next was The Mob Museum. We had tried to go on the first night, however we were informed that the FBI were having their Xmas party in the courtroom, which is the best bit of the exhibition. So eagerly we returned and it was worth the wait. A fantastic 3 storeys full of Mob memorabilia, both from Las Vegas and throughout the US. Could easily spend 3-4 hours there it's so interesting. And they've got a replica Tommy gun you can shoot! The Courtroom exhibition showed videos from the Kefauver Trials in the actual courtroom they used to put away all the mobster's in the 50's. Another must see attraction in Vegas.

The finishing touch to the trip was dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe. I had never been to one before so I was mega excited. And quite rightly. Great food, great cocktails, great music. Overall, a bloody great trip.

Happily drinking my Southern Rock cocktail, washing down a brilliant Pulled Pork sandwich. And I got to keep/buy the glass!

In the mean time

So I realised that I hadn't posted anything in the last 4 weeks. Mainly because I haven't done anything worthy of a blog (compared to moving countries or visiting exciting places). My jet setting has been on hold recently and I've barely strayed to Downtown St Johns. My next big adventure is due in December when I'm off to the Mojave Desert, but in attempt to keep my readers, I figured I should tell everyone about the more ordinary aspects of my new life. 

I have turned into a Pub Quiz regular at the Grad student Pub, Bitters. They call it Trivia, but I will endeavour to keep my English vernacular. Somewhat accidently I joined a group of quiz veterans and who base their team names on Strip Clubs of the World, examples being "Suckingham Palace" and "Pacific Rim-job" (specifically "Pacific Rim-job:Splendour without Diminishment" in honour of our favourite BC resident). Any further suggestions for team names are welcome. I've also stumbled upon a very knowledgable team and we frequently come in the top 2, rewarded of course with alcohol. Well, I say "we". I sit there and hope for a British question ("Who ran the first 4-minute mile?") or get excited when music or TV questions remind me about my friends back home (i.e. Right Said Fred, Dawson's Creek or Total Eclipse of the Heart). Subsequently Thursdays are my favourite day of the week.

Okay so this wasn't actually to do with the Pub Quiz, but it was taken at Bitters. The Canadians taught me how to turn Sir Wilfred Laurier (ex-Canadian Prime Minister) into Spock.

We celebrated Canadian Thanksgiving! Now I was expecting a big deal to be made of this. Either my expectations were high or my housemates just weren't that into it but it was a rather mellow affair. Determined to celebrate in some form I rallied the house and we prepared a lovely meal of roast chicken thighs with roast veg, mashed potatoes, squash, stuffing and gravy, finished with chocolate pie. Whatever I made of the day overall, I certainly managed to cook some yummy food.

Yummy Thanksgiving Dinner. I'm so happy they have stuffing over here.

I went to my first kegger. It's not really that big a deal, it was just a party with kegs of beer which is hardly a rarity, but I felt it was a distinctly North American thing that I should embrace. It was a fundraiser for my friends Gaelic football club (60% drinking 40% playing was their spiel to get me involved). It was good chat, good food and good drink. There was also a bit of snow! It was only a 30 second flutter and it didn't do anything, but again, it was an important event in my Canadian timeline.

I saw my first live sporting event. It was a double header of football (as in English football, I refuse to call it soccer, and if it was rugby with pads I would call it American football) versus the St Francis Xavier X-Men & X-Women. The women earned a tough 0-0 draw. The men ended up on the wrong side of an 7-0 drubbing as well as seeing their keeper sent off for too much backchat. Not a bad afternoon of entertainment for $3. The main point of the day was that I watched live football with other human beings and they still want to be my friends. For those who have accompanied or even heard me watching sports, you will understand how big a thing this is!

Nicked off of Tiffany. Watching MUN at King George V Park, the footy park equipped with cold metal bleachers and $1.25 tea. Located conveniently next to the supermarket so you can do your shopping after the games.

I've moved to my new office on the 5th floor. I have officemates who are lovely and I can now be hunted down my advisor if needed. Work has involved lots and lots of reading that I have been surprisingly keen with. The lab class I TA has finally moved onto the microscopes, something I'm actually good at! 

The pub quiz team celebrated Halloween in a distinctly geeky fashion. Between the 5 of us we comprised the Periodic Table, me being the Transition metals. We all required quite a bit of explanation to everyone we saw, but we all had an excellent time. Shopping for clothes took us to Value Village, basically the biggest charity shop I've ever been to. The "quality" of clothes did not disappoint  Additionally to celebrate finding our costumes we went off for my first Frozen Yoghurt experience. I may have to yield to the American pronunciation of that, it doesn't quite sound right when said in the Queen's English.

Nicked off of Steph. From L->R: The alkali metals, alkali earths, transition metals, non-metals/poor metals, noble gases. As per usual, I'm caught in a stupid pose.

Most recently I have found my fellow football fans who unite to watch Champions League and Premiership matches when they're shown on Canadian TV. This usually involves a trip to The Duke, the place I went to for fish and chips when I first got here. This weekend involved me watching the Merseyside Derby at Hannah's house over a fried brunch of champions. Her neighbours surely did not understand all the screaming. Resigned to not achieving anything for the rest of the day we ended up in The Duke for the Man U-Chelsea match where we were treated with more footballing excitement. The day culminated in my identity crisis as an Irish guy we met was utterly confused with my accent. He even said I'd picked up Canadian...

So that pretty much brings y'all up to date on my adventures. The only thing left to say is if you've managed to miss it, watch last Sunday's Antiques Roadshow. You may spot a familiar face or two lurking behind some very valuable royal memorabilia. 

Until the next time I do something interesting...

Out and about on The Rock

Over the last few weeks I have managed to get myself on various excursions around the island. Such trips are a great opportunity to see Newfoundland because if you can't drive or don't have a car like me :( it is quite difficult to get outside of St john's.

First of all, a geography lesson! I'm all for knowing the geographical context of an area so I shall enlighten y'all. You never know, something might come up in a pub quiz one day.

Gotta love Google Maps

I live in the province of Newfoundland & Labrador, on the island of Newfoundland, on the Avalon Peninsula on the east of the island, and the city and capital of the province, St. John's.

#1 Bay Bulls
This trip was the first event of the Alexander Murray Club (Geolsoc) calender. A boat trip to Bay Bulls. The idea is to see whales and puffins and all the exciting wildlife that live off the coasts. However going in September, all the whales and puffins have gone. Not even a lazy straggler was in sight. It wasn't a complete waste in terms of animals though; we did spot a bald eagle (apparently?!), some jellyfish and a cormorant!

The bald eagle was about this outcrop somewhere...

The infamous Newfoundland fog lying low off the coast.

When we weren't trying to spot something interesting, us geologists were doing what we do best. Drinking beer. 2 small cans of Coors or Bud for $6. A bargain even if it is terrible beer. The constant flow of ale over the 90 minute tour was conducive to chatting and making lots of new friends. It culminated in a dance-off between the Murray Club members, where I refused to be dragged up to dance with the drunkest guy on the trip, citing that "English people don't dance."

Afterwards we went for Mexican where I was introduced to a new more refined way of eating nachos. We then headed for Big Ben's which I suppose is the Memorial version of the Whey Pat, just with less light and seemingly irritable bar staff. After we were told to be quiet by the manager we decided to head to an impromptu house party where the beer continued to flow and my peers were introduced to my competitive streak and my mad skills at beer pong.

Nachos at Quintanas.
Chilli etc. is served individually on a chip.
Good food but is way too delicate to be served in the Whey Pat.

#2 Flat Rock
So my supervisor managed to convince Exxon Mobil to come and run a safety course in St John's instead of Houston, and got them to help fund our field schools for the next two years. A perk of this is that staff and some of the postgrads who wanted were allowed to go on the safety course. We did a Canadian Red Cross First Aid course in which we learnt a disproportionate amount about choking and childcare. Then we were taught how to act as field trip leaders and how to do a bit of first aid in the field. This was the bit that meant I got to go outside again! Granted this time it was only 30 minutes N of St John's in a place called Flat Rock but we got good weather so it was very pretty.

Cool coastal outcrops where 3rd years do their structural field trip.
There's a really cool ramp structure in the left of the photo!

Pretty waterfalls.

One of the groups attending to our Exon Mobil leader who "fell over and hit her head."
They definitely had the hardest job of all the groups!

Gorgeous day and yet another panorama

 During the day we were split into groups and were responsible for leading our the rest of the group round like we were on a field trip (minus the geology bits!) The rest of the group were told to be as mischievous as possible to make it difficult for the leaders. People would try to wander off, take photos from precarious spots, be unco-operative etc. This actually led to my favourite moment of the day. John, my supervisor and Head of Department, was being difficult when I was leader and was saying he was going to walk a different way back because he knew what he was doing. After trying to reason with him he said "But I'm your supervisor" to which I got to reply "No, I'm your supervisor right now." Satisfying if not a bit terrifying.

#3 Grand Falls 
The day after I learnt how to co-ordinate a mass road-crossing, I was in the field again but this time to actually look at rocks. I had signed up for the Geological Association of Canada Fall Trip to Central Newfoundland. Some 428 miles along the Trans-Canada Highway is Grand Falls-Windsor, our base for the weekend trip. There was a mix of undergrads, Master's and PhD student from Memorial and industry professionals, some of whom have been working on these rocks their whole career.

GEOLOGY WARNING. The geological gist was that we were looking at the sediments that were deposited in the Iapetus ocean between Gondwana and Laurentia some 420 million years ago. These then got smushed up when the ocean closed and the Appalachian and Caledonian mountains formed. The Canadian version of the Iapetus suture in the UK is the "Red Indian Line" which we were dotting about for the weekend. GEOLOGY OVER.

It was a fun weekend with lovely weather yet again, making the scenery even more spectacular. Most of the outcrops we visited were coastal and situated around small fishing communities. The best place name by far was Leading Tickles, named so for the thin stretch of the bay (called a Tickle) that was an important water route way back when.

Leading Tickles at sunset.

Moore's Cove lone landscape.

Mouse Cove. Beautifully isolated.

Great bedding-foliation relationships in some oceanic green and red beds
near Moore's Cove.

Sharon's Cove where we saw the same type of turbidites that are in the
Southern Uplands in Scotland.

The weekend ended with dinner at a Chinese Buffet in Grand Falls which seemed to be open just for us. After sampling one of the town's 2 pubs the night before, we gave Jimi Jak's a chance. It was a quiet night to say the least, despite it being a Saturday, but that meant we could monopolise the pool table so we didn't complain. Again my competitive streak was shown to a new set of people. My pool skills were rather impressive and despite protesting that it was atypical of my usual game they know think I'm somewhat good.

Lunch stop on the final day at Cottrell's Cove.
Tim Horton's sandwich and a beer.
Gorgeous view.

In conclusion, I've had a pretty good last week or so. The trips made up for the fact my TA-ing sucks a bit right now. But anyways. I really hope I get to see more of this beautiful island and beautiful country.